{"id":835,"date":"2023-10-07T20:40:06","date_gmt":"2023-10-07T18:40:06","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/?p=835"},"modified":"2024-01-31T15:55:58","modified_gmt":"2024-01-31T14:55:58","slug":"concepcion-curacaotin","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/index.php\/2023\/10\/07\/concepcion-curacaotin\/","title":{"rendered":"4. De Concepci\u00f3n \u00e0 Curacaot\u00edn, du Pacifique aux Andes"},"content":{"rendered":"

[et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb0px||7px||false|false\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.23.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]<\/p>\n

Concepci\u00f3n, Conce, ville rock, ville rebelle. Pour nous quelques belles soir\u00e9es pass\u00e9es avec L\u00e9o, Nicolas, Ronya et Simon, \u00e0 discuter histoire et politique, d\u00e9fense des cours d’eau et am\u00e9nagement routier. Et v\u00e9lo ! L\u00e9o est LA figure locale des d\u00e9fenseurs du v\u00e9lo. A l’occasion de la journ\u00e9e sans voiture, il doit \u00eatre interview\u00e9 et nous propose d’apporter notre grain de sel. C\u00e9lestin est tr\u00e8s fier de passer \u00e0 la t\u00e9l\u00e9 ! (locale ;)) Balade dans la ville aux murs couverts de peinture, certaines po\u00e9tiques, d’autres tr\u00e8s politiques. Apr\u00e8s avoir r\u00e9alis\u00e9 \u00ab\u00a0un guide\u00a0\u00bb de survie avant le d\u00e9part, C\u00e9lestin, inspir\u00e9, s’attaque aux plans de la r\u00e9volution !<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb1_3,2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb||9px|||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/10\/3.-De-Santiago-a-Concepcion-78.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb3. De Santiago a Concepcion (78)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-2.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (2)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-3.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (3)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px||8px|||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px|||||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.23.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]<\/p>\n

D\u00e9part de Conce par une belle journ\u00e9e de printemps direction la gare pour nous faire gagner facilement quelques kilom\u00e8tres vers le sud et les Andes. Nuit au bord de la rivi\u00e8re, et de la voie ferr\u00e9e. Deux paires d’yeux nous \u00e9pient dans le noir. Des trains de marchandises passent. Tout… Dou… Ce… Ment…<\/p>\n

Le lendemain nous nous envolons sur l’autoroute du futur ! En r\u00e9alit\u00e9 une 2×2 voies en construction. C’est dimanche, pas de travaux, nous profitons de longs tron\u00e7ons goudronn\u00e9s, mais pas encore ouverts aux voitures. Royal ! M\u00eame si \u00e7a semble un peu sur-dimensionn\u00e9…<\/p>\n

\u00c0 Los Sauces, V\u00edctor nous aborde. Il nous a entendu parler fran\u00e7ais et propose de nous inviter chez lui. Il a habit\u00e9 six ans en France, de 1979 \u00e0 1986. Parti chercher du travail, laissant femme et enfants au pays. Il a aim\u00e9 se former \u00e0 l’\u00e9lectricit\u00e9, l’ambiance avec les\u00a0camarades \u00e0 l’usine. Puis il est rentr\u00e9. Enfin. Il est parti travailler dans les mines, au nord. Trois semaines l\u00e0-bas, une semaine chez lui. Les mines \u00e0 plus de 4.000 m\u00e8tres d’altitude. Le campement entre 2.500m et 3.000m. Avion et bus affr\u00e9t\u00e9s sp\u00e9cialement par les compagnies pour faire venir des travailleurs de tout le pays. L\u00e0 aussi la camaraderie fait tenir. Victor chante aussi. Des chansons d’amour. En espagnol et en fran\u00e7ais. Aujourd’hui, Victor est seul. Sa femme l’a quitt\u00e9. Il est un peu triste. Se demande \u00e0 quoi bon toute cette vie \u00e0 travailler loin de chez lui. Hier c’\u00e9tait son anniversaire. Il partage avec nous ce qu’il reste du g\u00e2teau. Nous partageons avec lui nos p\u00e2tes \u00e0 la carotte, puis il allume le micro…<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb2_3,1_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-7.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (7)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-5.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (5)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-12.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (12)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px||10px|||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px|||||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb]<\/p>\n

Le lendemain, une longue ligne droite nous attend. Et comme toutes les lignes droites, elle n’\u00e9pouse pas les courbes des collines, mais leur passe dessus, sans m\u00e9nager les cyclistes ! Beaucoup de for\u00eats, de pneus, de maisons et de cabanes br\u00fbl\u00e9s sur le bord de la route. Nous croisons tank et camion amphibie militaire. L’apr\u00e8s-midi nous passons devant l’entr\u00e9e d’une piste gard\u00e9e par des militaires masqu\u00e9s. Nous sommes en Araucanie. Dernier des territoires mapuche \u00e0 avoir rendu les armes face au jeune \u00e9tat chilien. Car, non les Am\u00e9riques n’\u00e9taient pas des d\u00e9serts \u00e0 l’arriv\u00e9e des conquistadors, pas plus qu’elles ne l’\u00e9taient quand on a commenc\u00e9 \u00e0 distribuer des terres aux colons. Aujourd’hui, les mapuches r\u00e9clament ces terres qui leur ont \u00e9t\u00e9 vol\u00e9es. Dans les arbres, au bord des champs, des for\u00eats, \u00e0 l’entr\u00e9e des pistes, nous pouvons lire \u00ab\u00a0Libertad P.M.M. Recuperation Territorial\u00a0\u00bb.<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb1_3,2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-13.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (13)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-20.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (20)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-16.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (16)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px||54px|||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px|||||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb]En ligne de mire, apparaissent les volcans enneig\u00e9s. Ils seront nos rep\u00e8res pour les semaines \u00e0 venir. Ce soir nous dormons au bord d’un lac artificiel, avec pour toile de fond ces g\u00e9ants bienveillants. Les enfants se baignent… en doudoune ! Les pieds anesth\u00e9si\u00e9s par le froid, il faut les forcer \u00e0 sortir. Mais les fesses, elles, sont rest\u00e9es bien au sec ! Nous longeons des champs de noisettes qui partiront alimenter les usines de p\u00e2te \u00e0 tartiner. Apr\u00e8s Victoria, des panneaux sur la route \u00ab\u00a0raclette et camembert\u00a0\u00bb! Ad\u00e8le nous attend au fondo Mondio. Elle est la jeune g\u00e9rante d’une ferme appartement \u00e0 une fondation ayant des liens forts avec la France . Ceci expliquant cela. Le soir, Le\u00efla me dit \u00ab\u00a0on est bien ici, c’est presque comme \u00e0 la maison. On a un lit pour nous tout seul et des couettes. Enfin des couvertures, mais c’est presque pareil !\u00a0\u00bb En plus, il y a la douche du futur : eau chaude, jet d’eau et musique ! On s’y endormirait presque. Le tout, c’est d’en sortir. La salle de bain doit avoisiner les 10 degr\u00e9s ! On est bien ici. La ferme emploie une petite vingtaine de salari\u00e9s dont la plupart vivent sur l’exploitation avec leur famille. Une ambiance chaleureuse r\u00e8gne. Plaisir des repas pris ensemble. Douceur des balades entre lac, champs et for\u00eats. C\u00e9lestin taille un lance-pierre. Joachim, l’amoureux d’Ad\u00e8le, lui en fabrique un avec un haut de bouteille en plastique et des ballons de baudruche. L\u00e9o, l’administrateur technique de l’exploitation, rentre de weekend avec un lance-pierre pour chacun des enfants. Les plans de la r\u00e9volution s’affinent… Petite journ\u00e9e facile pour rejoindre Curacaut\u00edn, notre porte d’entr\u00e9e pour les Andes. [\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb2_3,1_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-24.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (24)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-27.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (27)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/1.-Conception-Curacautin-18.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb1. Conception – Curacautin (18)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Pan, Queso, Palta : la sainte trinit\u00e9 du cyclo. Trois mots vite appris par les enfants !<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":416,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"1080","footnotes":""},"categories":[12,15],"tags":[13,10],"class_list":["post-835","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chili","category-velo","tag-chili","tag-velo"],"yoast_head":"\n4. De Concepci\u00f3n \u00e0 Curacaot\u00edn, du Pacifique aux Andes - Terre de Paysages<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Pan, Queso, Palta, la sainte trinit\u00e9 du cyclo. 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