{"id":1342,"date":"2024-02-02T15:23:17","date_gmt":"2024-02-02T14:23:17","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/?p=1342"},"modified":"2024-03-14T16:15:46","modified_gmt":"2024-03-14T15:15:46","slug":"massif-du-fitz-roy","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/index.php\/2024\/02\/02\/massif-du-fitz-roy\/","title":{"rendered":"12. Massif du Fitz Roy"},"content":{"rendered":"

[et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb0px||7px||false|false\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]<\/p>\n

D\u00e8s notre arriv\u00e9e \u00e0 El Chalten, nous regardons la m\u00e9t\u00e9o. Nous le savons, ici il faut savoir profiter des (rares) fen\u00eatres que Zeus est susceptible de nous offrir. La carte nous propose de relier les deux randos que nous voulions faire pour en faire une grande. Sauf que la liaison entre les deux n’est autoris\u00e9e que dans un seul sens, et bien \u00e9videmment pas celui que nous voulions. Ce sera donc deux randos que nous ferons. La m\u00e9t\u00e9o dicte l’ordre. Nous partons pour le Fitz Roy et le Cerro Torre, ou plus pr\u00e9cis\u00e9ment pour le point de vue sur le Fitz Roy et le Cerro Torre, restons humbles… D\u00e9part tardif pour monter au camping le plus proche du fameux Mont. Nous sommes les derniers, ou presque, \u00e0 arriver au milieu de dizaines de tentes. Pendant que nous plantons la n\u00f4tre, Le\u00efla et C\u00e9lestin se lancent dans les grands travaux : construction de table, chaises, bancs et circuit pour courir. <\/p>\n

Nous, nous couchons sous un ciel \u00e9toil\u00e9… pour nous r\u00e9veiller sous le m\u00eame ciel \u00e9toil\u00e9. Petite c\u00f4telette nocturne pour arriver en m\u00eame temps que les premi\u00e8res lumi\u00e8res sur le Fitz Roy. Pas de rose, les nuages dans la plaine emp\u00eachant les rayons du soleil de venir r\u00e9chauffer le rocher. \u00c7a n’en reste pas moins magique !<\/p>\n

Ensuite, redescente, suivie d’une travers\u00e9e pour aller camper au plus pr\u00e8s du Cerro Torre cette fois. Nouveau r\u00e9veil matinal pour lever de soleil \u00e0 cinq minutes de la tente. Nous avons la chance de pouvoir prendre notre petit d\u00e9jeuner baign\u00e9s par une belle lumi\u00e8re orang\u00e9e face \u00e0 la montagne pr\u00e9f\u00e9r\u00e9e de Florent !<\/p>\n

Puis c’est la descente finale pour une arriv\u00e9e dans le vent d’El Chalten ! Nous changeons de rue pour ne pas nous faire fouetter par le sable. Carnage au camping, un paquet de tentes sont compl\u00e8tement en vrac. A nous de trouver une place relativement abrit\u00e9e au milieu de tout ce quilombo…<\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb3_5,2_5″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.23.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb||9px|||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb3_5″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/Massif-Fitz-Roy-24.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbMassif Fitz Roy (24)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/Massif-Fitz-Roy-33.jpg\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbMassif Fitz Roy (33)\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb2_5″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/Massif-Fitz-Roy-17.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbMassif Fitz Roy (17)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/Massif-Fitz-Roy-20.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbMassif Fitz Roy (20)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/02\/Massif-Fitz-Roy-41.jpg\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bbMassif Fitz Roy (41)\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px||8px|||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px|||||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.2″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]<\/p>\n

Deux jours de repos pour laisser passer le vent et la pluie, pour faire la classe et manger des glaces, pour profiter de la salle commune, bond\u00e9e, du camping. Petit coup d\u2019\u0153il \u00e0 la ronde, \u00a0\u00e0 nous quatre nous sommes dans la moyenne d’age : 25 ans ! Nous avons m\u00eame le plaisir de retrouver Am\u00e9lie, Julien, Anae et Meloe, pour le plus grand bonheur des enfants!<\/p>\n

Nouvelle fen\u00eatre m\u00e9t\u00e9o : nous refaisons les sacs et laissons \u00e0 nouveau v\u00e9los et sacoches chez Mariana qui quelques jours plus t\u00f4t nous avait gentiment propos\u00e9 de garder nos affaires chez elle.<\/p>\n

Cette fois nous partons pour le passo d’El Viento, le bien nomm\u00e9… Il y a douze ans, ce fameux vent ne nous avait pas laiss\u00e9 d\u00e9passer le rocher \u00e0 la sortie du campement, le col \u00e9tait alors rest\u00e9 pour nous un endroit impossible \u00e0 rejoindre. Cette fois nous y croyons. Nous montons d’un bon pas. Petite pause sur les rochers, craque le pantalon. C\u00e9lestin se marre en voyant ma culotte l\u00e9opards. Flo sort le gros scotch gris pour que les f\u00e9lins ne s\u2019\u00e9chappent pas. \u00c9tablissement du campement \u00e0 l’abri dans la for\u00eat. La cabane est toujours l\u00e0, aussi petite que dans notre souvenir, et manifestement les souris aussi ! Nous plongeons dans nos duvets car une grande journ\u00e9e nous attend.<\/p>\n

Pour monter au paso del viento deux passages rigolos, le premier : une tyrolienne. L\u2019\u00e9preuve pr\u00e9c\u00e9dente ayant \u00e9t\u00e9 de louer des baudriers ajustables… d\u00e8s que nous prononcions le mot \u00a0\u00bb enfant \u00ab\u00a0, la r\u00e9ponse \u00e9tait \u00a0\u00bb\u00a0non \u00ab\u00a0. M\u00eame en leur d\u00e9montrant l’inverse, preuves (l\u00e9gales et pratiques) en direct, c\u2019\u00e9tait \u00a0\u00bb non, les baudriers ne sont pas faits pour les enfants \u00ab\u00a0. Ils auraient tout aussi bien pu nous dire \u00a0\u00bb Non, les enfants ne vont pas en montagne \u00ab\u00a0. Flo \u00e9tait donc retourn\u00e9 en boutique le lendemain, sans enfants. Et le voil\u00e0 maintenant pendu au c\u00e2ble, sa fille entre les jambes, \u00e0 passer au-dessus du torrent sous les applaudissements de la petite file des randonneurs. Une fois toute la famille de l’autre c\u00f4t\u00e9, nous poursuivons notre ascension pour arriver sur un glacier, suffisamment couvert de cailloux pour ne pas craindre les glissades. Le\u00efla est contente ! Elle jalousait son fr\u00e8re depuis qu’elle savait qu’il avait \u00e9t\u00e9 sur la Mer de glace avant sa naissance. Elle avait bien regard\u00e9 la carte et avait rep\u00e9r\u00e9 que nous allions passer pr\u00e8s, voir sur des glaciers\u00a0: \u00a0\u00bb\u00a0Maman, regarde, l\u00e0 on peut aller sur le glacier\u00a0\u00ab\u00a0. Elle enjambe les crevasses sans appr\u00e9hension et s’amuse avec son fr\u00e8re \u00e0 jeter des cailloux dans les trous d’eau pour en estimer la profondeur. Nous poursuivons notre mont\u00e9e pour trouver des lacs d’altitude au col et basculer sur le campo de hielo sur, un immense champ de glace aliment\u00e9 par les pr\u00e9cipitations venues du Pacifique. Au fond, d’autres cha\u00eenes de montagnes qui semblent loin de toute exploration. C’est magnifique ! Nous restons un long moment devant ce paysage grandiose.<\/p>\n

Puis c’est la longue redescente, le glacier, le pierrier et la tyrolienne, en solo pour les enfants cette fois, arriv\u00e9e au camping et chute d’une dent de C\u00e9lestin. Il \u00e9crit un mot \u00e0 la petite souris… Au petit d\u00e9jeuner, c’est au tour de Flo de perdre une dent… Le soir m\u00eame, il va voir la petite souris du poste de sant\u00e9, qui lui dit de revenir le lendemain \u00e0 7h, heures des urgences. C\u00e9lestin se tourne vers moi avec un grand sourire \u00ab Maman, pour couper le turon, il faut attendre demain 7h… \u00ab\u00a0<\/p>\n

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La m\u00e9t\u00e9o nous annonce \u00e0 nouveau du vent, de la pluie, que du bonheur, hors de question de reprendre la route tout de suite. Nous profitons des accalmies pour aller nous balader aux pieds des falaises. Le camion de Patagonia est de passage dans le village, nous apportons pantalon et veste \u00e0 ses couturi\u00e8res pour les faire r\u00e9parer, parfait! Nous faisons m\u00eame une petite s\u00e9ance cin\u00e9-montagne dans la salle d’escalade du club andino. On se sent presque comme \u00e0 la maison !<\/p>\n

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