{"id":1107,"date":"2023-12-03T16:06:16","date_gmt":"2023-12-03T15:06:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/?p=1107"},"modified":"2024-02-10T20:50:24","modified_gmt":"2024-02-10T19:50:24","slug":"patagonie-du-sud","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/index.php\/2023\/12\/03\/patagonie-du-sud\/","title":{"rendered":"8. Patagonie du sud"},"content":{"rendered":"

[et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb0px||7px||false|false\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]<\/p>\n

Puerto Natales. Nous laissons passer le gros coup de vent et partons sous une petite pluie, grise. \u00c7a caille! La pluie cesse. Le vent forcit. Nous l’avons de dos puis de c\u00f4t\u00e9. Les enfants apprennent \u00e0 p\u00e9daler pench\u00e9s. [Petit exercice : les cyclistes vont vers le sud, ils penchent sur leur droite. D\u2019o\u00f9 vient le vent ?] Les paysages s’ouvrent, montagnes enneig\u00e9es en toile de fond. V\u00e9ritable bouff\u00e9e d\u2019oxyg\u00e8ne. Le soir nous cherchons un endroit \u00e0 l’abri du vent, pas \u00e9vident dans cette pampa bord\u00e9e de barbel\u00e9s. Nous allons toquer \u00e0 la porte d’une estancia pour demander \u00e0 dormir \u00e0 l’abri des arbres. Les travailleurs nous donnent de l’eau et nous laissent profiter d’une belle pelouse au bord de la lagune. Le lendemain le due\u00f1o arrive. Il nous ouvre la porte des toilettes, mais surtout nous parle d’une route plus au sud, celle qui doit rejoindre Yendegaia. Yendegaia, fjord c\u00f4t\u00e9 chilien du sud de la Terre de Feu, au bord du canal Beagle, au pied de la cordill\u00e8re Darwin, \u00e0 quelques kilom\u00e8tres d\u2019Ushua\u00efa. Estancia uniquement accessible par bateau. Aujourd’hui. Car depuis longtemps il y a un projet de route pour la relier au reste du Chili. A priori, la piste ne s\u2019arr\u00eaterait d\u00e9sormais qu’\u00e0 50km du lieu et nous savons que sur demande un ferry peut s’y arr\u00eater pour embarquer des passagers. Alors nous nous mettons \u00e0 r\u00eaver… Imaginer un sentier pour rejoindre ce bout du monde dont nous avions eu connaissance il y a 10<\/span> ans. Il y en a forc\u00e9ment un ! Ne serait-ce que pour \u00e9tudier le trac\u00e9 de la route…<\/span><\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb1_3,2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.23.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb||9px|||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5.-Puerto-Natales-Punta-Arenas-19.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb5. Puerto Natales – Punta Arenas (19)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5.-Puerto-Natales-Punta-Arenas-31.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb5. Puerto Natales – Punta Arenas (31)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5.-Puerto-Natales-Punta-Arenas-23.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb5. Puerto Natales – Punta Arenas (23)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px||8px|||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px|||||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]<\/p>\n

Le vent de c\u00f4t\u00e9 forcit. Les cyclos penchent dangereusement. Les abribus \u00e0 l’architecture si caract\u00e9ristique sont les bienvenus pour s’abriter d’une averse, pour s’abriter du vent. Les paysages sont grands ouverts. Lignes droites dans la plaine. Sentiment de libert\u00e9. Respirer. Enfin. Voyager \u00e0 v\u00e9lo prend tout son sens ici. Avoir le sentiment d’aller jusqu\u2019o\u00f9 nous porte le regard. Les automobilistes trouvent le paysage monotone. Nous y voyons couleurs, estancias au loin, des milliers de brebis et leurs petits, mais aussi guanacos, nandous, flamands roses, oies sauvages, li\u00e8vres \u00e0 grandes oreilles et m\u00eame tatous et mouffettes !
Nuit chez les carabineros, les gendarmes. Ils nous ouvrent une maison non-utilis\u00e9e. Faveur pour les enfants. Parce que d’habitude les cyclos campent de l’autre c\u00f4t\u00e9 de la route. Serait-on devenu trop nombreux \u00e0 chercher o\u00f9 camper ?
Tehuelche. Petite pause. Des deux roues arrivent. C’est Diego et son pote Th\u00e9o ! Diego, cyclo belge avec qui nous avions pass\u00e9 une soir\u00e9e bien plus au nord, \u00e0 la sortie du parc Conguillio. Haha ! Nous l’avons doubl\u00e9! Ok, nous avons pris un ferry sur plus de 2.000km… C’est rigolo de le revoir. Ils sont \u00e0 fond, ont quitt\u00e9 Puerto Natales le matin \u00e0 11h et projettent de rejoindre Punta Arenas le soir m\u00eame ! Il nous faudra 4 jours ! Apr\u00e8s les 400g de p\u00e2tes par repas, le coup du pick-up et les distances parcourues aujourd’hui, Diego devient d\u00e9finitivement notre h\u00e9ros familial ! C\u00e9lestin projette de l’inscrire aux grandes courses Transcontinentales. Le Tour de France \u00e9tant \u00e9videmment trop petit.<\/span><\/p>\n

Nous croisons des dizaines de camping-car de voyageurs. Si ils sont de formats tr\u00e8s vari\u00e9s, du pick-up avec module aux gros camions 4×4, tous arborent le m\u00eame autocollant. Est-ce une caravane des temps moderne ? Une arriv\u00e9e de cargo ?<\/span><\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb2_3,1_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5.-Puerto-Natales-Punta-Arenas-52.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb5. Puerto Natales – Punta Arenas (52)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5.-Puerto-Natales-Punta-Arenas-44.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb5. Puerto Natales – Punta Arenas (44)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5.-Puerto-Natales-Punta-Arenas-48.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb5. Puerto Natales – Punta Arenas (48)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section][et_pb_section fb_built=\u00a0\u00bb1″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px||10px|||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_row _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb custom_padding=\u00a0\u00bb6px|||||\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb4_4″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_text _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″]<\/p>\n

Punta Arenas. Petite averse de neige humide avant d’entrer en ville. Nous passons au mus\u00e9e naval. Reproduction des bateaux embl\u00e9matiques de la r\u00e9gion : celui de Magellan, de Fitz Roy, etc. Les enfants se prennent pour des conquistadors. Il y a \u00e9galement la chaloupe avec laquelle Shackleton a r\u00e9ussi \u00e0 rejoindre la G\u00e9orgie du Sud depuis la p\u00e9ninsule Antarctique apr\u00e8s que son navire, L’Endurance, se soit fait prendre et d\u00e9truire par les glaces. Voir la taille de l’embarcation aux vues de la travers\u00e9e effectu\u00e9e est juste incroyable ! <\/span><\/p>\n

Nous reprenons humblement nos petits v\u00e9los pour rejoindre un lieu au combien plus confortable : Nato nous attend et nous montre deux chambres avec lits et couettes. Les enfants sont aux anges ! Il y a m\u00eame une douche chaude (\u00e7a, ils s’en fichent, sur le coup en tout cas) et un truc de fou : une piscine chauff\u00e9e au rez-de-chauss\u00e9e de l’immeuble. Alors l\u00e0 c’est le paradis, la f\u00eate int\u00e9grale!! Nato sort des saumons de son cong\u00e9lo, nous sortons nos courgettes et notre riz pour accompagner. Il travaille dans une ferme \u00e0 saumons. et nous pr\u00e9cise qu’il ne mange pas le saumon de cette nouvelle ferme pour laquelle il travaille : trop d’antibiotiques donn\u00e9s aux b\u00eates. Apr\u00e8s le repas, il nous explique l’\u00e9levage : naissance des saumons dans les lacs, puis transport des bestiaux par camions et bateaux jusqu’aux fjords o\u00f9 ils grandiront par milliers dans des cages. A priori ils arrivent \u00e0 nager… Quand ils atteignent la taille souhait\u00e9e, c’est l’heure de la cueillette : aspiration des saumons \u00e0 l’aide de gros tuyaux. \u00c7a fait beaucoup moins r\u00eaver tout d’un coup… Si \u00e0 cela on ajoute le fait que les saumons et truites introduits ont pratiquement extermin\u00e9 tous les autres poissons de rivi\u00e8re, nous nous sentons tr\u00e8s proches des peintures murales disant \u201cNo a la salmonera\u201d, \u201cAguas libres\u201d. Mais Nato est lui, tr\u00e8s g\u00e9n\u00e9reux, et nous appr\u00e9cions sinc\u00e8rement tous les moments pass\u00e9s ensemble. <\/span><\/p>\n

[\/et_pb_text][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][et_pb_row column_structure=\u00a0\u00bb1_3,2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb1_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5.-Puerto-Natales-Punta-Arenas-68.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb5. Puerto Natales – Punta Arenas (68)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5.-Puerto-Natales-Punta-Arenas-71.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb5. Puerto Natales – Punta Arenas (71)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][et_pb_column type=\u00a0\u00bb2_3″ _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.22.1″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb][et_pb_image src=\u00a0\u00bbhttps:\/\/blog.terredepaysages.fr\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/5.-Puerto-Natales-Punta-Arenas-64.jpg\u00a0\u00bb title_text=\u00a0\u00bb5. Puerto Natales – Punta Arenas (64)\u00a0\u00bb _builder_version=\u00a0\u00bb4.24.0″ _module_preset=\u00a0\u00bbdefault\u00a0\u00bb hover_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″ global_colors_info=\u00a0\u00bb{}\u00a0\u00bb theme_builder_area=\u00a0\u00bbpost_content\u00a0\u00bb sticky_enabled=\u00a0\u00bb0″][\/et_pb_image][\/et_pb_column][\/et_pb_row][\/et_pb_section]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Lignes droites dans la pampa. Paysages grands ouverts. Sentiment de libert\u00e9, respirer.<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":787,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_et_pb_use_builder":"on","_et_pb_old_content":"","_et_gb_content_width":"1080","footnotes":""},"categories":[12,15],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1107","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-chili","category-velo"],"yoast_head":"\n8. Patagonie du sud - Terre de Paysages<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Lignes droites dans la pampa. Paysages grands ouverts. 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